Making a Rubik’s Cube Subwoofer


Created on 23.02.

Updated 03.30.2020 22:49.

Author: Zachary Paisley.

Here’s how I built a 15 “Rubik’s cube style subwoofer … or how I modeled a huge Rubik’s cube from a subwoofer!

On July 10, 2007, I began to make an addition to my home theater, namely a speaker system.

And so, 80 days later, he completed his project: the world’s first cube-subwoofer created in the style of Rubik’s Cube …

The subwoofer was conceived as an extension of my Paradigm home theater speaker system. I had a 5.0 system and lacked the bottom in the system. So the idea of ​​a sub was born.

I must say that the resulting system is just a beast! =) If you are completely unfamiliar with building projects like this, then here’s what you need to know to make sense of the photos posted below: A sealed Sub system consists of a sealed box, large (usually 8 “or more) speakers and a built-in amplifier. The speakers vibrate the air inside. a box that combines vibrations into low-frequency sound waves.

Since the operation of such a system is accompanied by powerful vibration, it must be heavy enough, otherwise the whole system will jump around the pool at the slightest increase in volume. Air volumes and internal support and routing must also be carefully calculated.

So, 2 weeks after drawing up the plans, I completed my measurements and began to work … In my project I used such material as MDF.

The bottom was reinforced in advance with a double layer. Since the outside of the case will still be tiled in the style of Rubik’s Cube, the weight had to be calculated taking into account additional elements.

First gluing of the body!

To make the glue stick well, I installed a few clamps. Note: in projects like this, it is very important that all parts are tightly attached to each other. In such work, in no case should you feel sorry for glue and be lazy to install clamps.

Of course, there are times when there is too much glue. =)

Glue sometimes seeps over the edges, which is a good indicator that the parts will be held together firmly enough – the air in the box should be easily pumped in.

Cut out two frames.

I bought small wooden legs for my project. The lower part had to be slightly corrected in order for the future system to be more stable.

I continue to work on the internal layout and borders.

Then I started building the box. First, you need to get rid of the excess glue by carefully cutting it off during the assembly process. As you can see, I used screws for additional fastening.

Note: the screws were only used as an additional fastener, not as a main one!

Screws cannot completely replace glue.

Strengthening and strengthening of the box structure

Frames are inserted and glued / screwed to the body. This is what it looks like.

All this is supported and the clamps are neatly installed. After all this, my back hurts terribly … And so, let’s look at the result from above. The bezels are firmly attached to the chassis, but there are small gaps that need to be removed.

Processing begins. I must say that it doesn’t matter how smoothly you cut the elements – one way or another, some irregularities and excess glue will appear. All this needs to be polished. In my case, this is simply necessary, since the tile must adhere closely to the shell.

And so, in the end, I fasten the last side. Just like the additional mount used screws. I screwed them in, as you can see, with an ordinary screwdriver. I hope no one comes up with the idea of ​​hammering them in.

Subwoofer enclosure plaster

Despite the fact that a tile will be laid on top of the surface of the case, I want to completely cover all joints, seams and screw holes with putty. And so, look at how it all looks in the end.

The result is a completely sealed box. Now we finish the Rubik’s Cube …

Tile cutting

Calculated exactly how many elements need to be cut to create a tile. I had to torment myself with calculating the size and quantity, since it is necessary to take into account all the holes for the future system.

Assembling tiles

In exactly the same way as in the case of the case – all joints are removed from certain sides. I calculated everything in advance, so the tiles are lined up in perfect squares. When finished, they will be sanded, plastered, and then sanded again. Before fixing all the tiles, I made one of the corners to see exactly how it would look. I think it turned out very well!

Trimming tiles to fit a round hole. The matter is, of course, difficult, but necessary.

The finished dry tile must be sanded, putty and sanded again for cosmetic purposes, since paint will be applied to the surface from above.

And so, that’s what happened.

Source: Project Cube

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