Created on 11.11.2012 11:09.
Updated 11.25.2019 21:34.
I decided make a subwoofer do it yourself on the basis of the Mystery speaker, it was a long time ago, almost 2 years have passed since it is already assembled and working, therefore, I will post the one that remained information and photos.
- High quality chrome injection molded diffuser
- Butyl rubber suspension
- Magnet weight 40 ounces / Magnet weight 80 ounces (1 ounce = 28.35 grams)
- 2 “Kapton coated aluminum voice coil for high temperature operation
- Speaker size: 10 “
- Rated power: 200W
- Maximum power: 400W
- Frequency Response Range: 28 Hz – 2.9 kHz
- Resistance: 4 ohm
- Sensitivity: 90dB, 1W / m
- Create a 10 ” speaker subwoofer (Jadoo series) Mystery MJS-10.
- Box material: plywood 18mm.
- The thickness of the “muzzle” is 36mm.
- Box volume: 48 liters.
- Box size HxWxL 380x320x545 mm.
- I categorically want the FI to be slotted, so that there are fewer vortex flows, the task is difficult. FI is tuned to 29 Hz.
- Epoxy resin as adhesive.
A little about dynamics
My observations, the design is solid, but this is not a cast basket, as it might seem, but stamping. Screw connectors. The reel is fully ventilated.
The conductors are woven into the centering washer, and that’s a smart way to go.
Making a case for a subwoofer
Next, for me, the difficult question was how to fix the speaker, don’t laugh, but you can thoughtlessly make a hole and screw the speaker, but what about the shock-absorbing edging, in the air, this is not correct, in general, in theory, the speaker should be fastened with screws (self-tapping screws) on the back of the speaker, then the “cushions” of the shock absorbers (from the micro-pore) will come into contact with the box. As a result, it was decided to make a fastening ring. Material plywood 18mm. with a milled groove.
Further, for beauty and to match the protective cap in the theme of the company’s color, I paint the ring.
Now I fix a speaker in a pre-made box for taking TC parameters, so as not to make mistakes in the calculations in future work.
I bought 18mm plywood. as I mentioned.
Sawed up the blanks for the future subwoofer box.
I glue the “muzzle” two 18mm boards.
Milling a hole for the speaker
Further, the walls will be assembled with the help of grooves, and I do them.
Checking the fit of parts.
Large clamps were not available, so I used a device for stitching floors.
Milled part, groove.
The grooves are good in all respects, they hold on without glue, but glue to death.
I glue, step by step, wall by wall, and assemble it completely.
I do not have enough attention from others. Hug me, and sundry. the border is glued as stiffeners.
The entire box is glued together, except for the top cover, so that we can do the decoration inside.
I make spacers for the beginning, they themselves are made of two glued platbands, MDF material.
Now I damp 3 layers of rubber-bitumen mastic, coat all the walls from the inside.
Further, when it dries up, but not quite so that the stickiness is preserved, I glue the batting on the mastic.
It’s time to glue the top cover.
When stuck together, in the hands of a grinding machine and in front, however, a tedious procedure. I use an eccentric machine.
The box is even, clean, sanded, and milled all the edges at 45 degrees.
Gradually I spill it, and the box is additionally glued inside with a synthpon.
I make cleats and protective heels.
The spikes are made of construction plumb lines, only sharpened to the point and hardened on the end burners.
I want to note that under the wooden “washers” on the box the places were not lashed, the mugs were sealed with paper, after the varnish dried, he tore off the dry circles that were not lashed on the box, why later, and not earlier, because the box would have been more difficult to lash, varnish poured around the ledges.
The heels, in turn, are made of caps from 2109. They are hardened, so you need to release them, drill an 8mm groove. drill, then harden back.
Finally, I mill the “washers”, latch them, paint the thorns, and glue them in place.